"[...]they were married, and they have lived happily to date. In one climb a chaperon gave out and promptly demanded that two young sweethearts turn back. As we moved on without the chaperon,
she called down upon my head the curses of all the gods at once! In order to save the day it is sometimes necessary for the guide to become an autocrat. Occasionally a climber is not
susceptible to suggestion and will obey only the imperative mood.[...]".